Materials 

Upper Leathers

Full Grain.jpg__PID:deff9ded-64cb-404b-b1a8-deda103312c9

Box calf full grain

Usually 1.2 - 1.4 mm thickness, it is the best kind of leather for formal mens shoes where the original grain is kept intact. The tight, compact grain structure gives a nice shine when polished and gives a fine look to the shoe. It will be stiffer than most leathers to start with, but will soften up nicely over time. It is this inner rigidity that is inherent to this leather type that makes it ideal for formal shoes. It also lends well to the shape of the last and makes the shoe look sharp even after many wears and kept in shoe trees. Anilinity gives the leather depth and richness especially as it ages and has layers of creams and waxes giving it a rich natural patina over time. 

Arterton-108straight.jpg__PID:3a96f61d-bf3a-4f7b-acdb-c7588ca2af43

Suede calf skin

Where the hide is split in two parts, the bottom fleshy part is used to make suede, and the top part is used to make another product. Good suede will have a nice short nap, which means it will feel soft and velvety giving it a rich allure. Suedes are misunderstood as ‘not easy to maintain’ which couldn’t be further from the truth. A water-proof spray will ensure they are great even on a rainy day, and all you need is a suede brush to give it a nice sheen and remove surface level dust. Occasionally it can be cleaned with light soap water, so in many ways it's actually easier to maintain, than full grain box calf, which requires creams and waxes to keep the leather healthy.

3.jpg__PID:b489deff-9ded-44cb-a04b-b1a8deda1033

Reverse suede

Where the top grain is only slightly sanded down similar to nubuck, so it retains the strength of the hide but the reverse side(the flesh side) is treated to give it a nice short nap. This is rarely made by many tanneries, owing to difficulty in treating two sides of the same skin and achieving a matching colour on both. We use only the best from the tannery of Charles F. Stead in England, who pioneered this leather type and now increasingly used for unlined construction, where both sides can be appreciated.

Shell.jpg__PID:012d0670-9298-4294-8c54-414ce9fa7769

Shell Cordovan

Shell cordovan is a type of leather that is prized for its smooth, lustrous finish and rich colors. It is made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. Shell cordovan is much more labor-intensive to produce than cowhide, and it ages very well, developing a particularly beautiful patina over time. The skill involved in making shell cordovan shoes is evident in every step of the process. From the selection of the leather to the final polishing, each step is performed with care and attention to detail.

Reindeer.jpg__PID:39012d06-7092-4842-948c-54414ce9fa77

Russian Reindeer Calf

Reindeer calf leather was a prized commodity in Imperial Russia’s trade with the West. Its popularity rose until the Russian Revolution and in the chaos, disorder, and destruction that followed the secret art of the leather’s tanning was lost.That was until in 1973 when a chance discovery of a 200 year old shipwreck, Which held many rolls of this leather. F&FJ Baker reverse engineered the process. They are the only tannery that makes this leather.

Milled.jpg__PID:9ded64cb-a04b-41a8-9eda-103312c9bf27

Naturally milled

The leather is much softer and ‘dyed through and through’ where the fat liquors penetrate the pores, fully making it inherently soft. But by using fuller substance, 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness it helps in holding shape and giving a nice cushion-like effect to the wearer. The full skin will have a variable grain pattern where some parts might have a bold pattern and some a finer milling pattern. We work on a spectrum where no milling and very large milling patterns are avoided in the cutting of the leather. Small, medium and large milling patterns are cut pair by pair so there isn’t any variation between the left and right. The leather is tumbled in a dry drum which helps give it a soft pleasing texture. 

Oil Pull up.jpg__PID:64cba04b-b1a8-4eda-9033-12c9bf272fa4

Oil Pull Up

Oil pull-up leather undergoes a unique tanning process where oils and waxes are infused into the leather, creating a soft and supple texture. Over time, the leather develops a distinctive patina, showcasing its durability and character. Additionally, the leather's responsiveness to use means that any temporary marks or scratches incurred during daily activities can be easily rubbed out, maintaining the appearance of the shoes.

Nubuck.jpg__PID:ed64cba0-4bb1-48de-9a10-3312c9bf272f

Nubuck

This leather is closer to a full grain, where the tight top part of the skin is kept more or less intact and sanded down minimally, just enough to give it the soft velvet touch and feel.Used mostly for more casual styles, they get a lot of undue publicity for difficulty in maintenance. With a water proof spray on top, shoes from this leather type can actually be very easy to maintain as they don’t need any cream or wax like full grain leathers do. Our nubucks, like our naturally milled leathers, are of fuller substance of 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness which help in shape retention and give a good, soft touch to the feet. 

Textured.jpg__PID:a04bb1a8-deda-4033-92c9-bf272fa403d6

Textured

A heated printing plate is pressed on top of the leather giving it a distinct look and feel. A tad bit on the stiffer, this leather type is best suited for a more casual look, especially the pebble grain and the hatch grain.

Drum dried crust.jpg__PID:89deff9d-ed64-4ba0-8bb1-a8deda103312

Drum dyed crust

Used in the lining of the shoe, where sweat absorption is important. Most linings are only upto 1 mm thick, rarely higher. However, we use 1.4 - 1.6 mm thick lining leathers, since we don’t use interlining materials and minimal adhesives between the upper and the lining. The thick lining further helps to hold the shape of the last, especially over time. The leather is dyed in the drum in the tanning process, as the name suggests, so no finishing dye solutions are sprayed on it, which may reduce its absorptive capacity. Lining leather can come in direct contact with your skin, so it's important that it is well ‘fixed’ making sure colours don’t bleed. All our lining leathers are made in local micro tanneries that are LWG certified.

Full Grain.jpg__PID:deff9ded-64cb-404b-b1a8-deda103312c9

Box calf full grain

Usually 1.2 - 1.4 mm thickness, it is the best kind of leather for formal mens shoes where the original grain is kept intact. The tight, compact grain structure gives a nice shine when polished and gives a fine look to the shoe. It will be stiffer than most leathers to start with, but will soften up nicely over time. It is this inner rigidity that is inherent to this leather type that makes it ideal for formal shoes. It also lends well to the shape of the last and makes the shoe look sharp even after many wears and kept in shoe trees. Anilinity gives the leather depth and richness especially as it ages and has layers of creams and waxes giving it a rich natural patina over time. 

Arterton-108straight.jpg__PID:3a96f61d-bf3a-4f7b-acdb-c7588ca2af43

Suede calf skin

Where the hide is split in two parts, the bottom fleshy part is used to make suede, and the top part is used to make another product. Good suede will have a nice short nap, which means it will feel soft and velvety giving it a rich allure. Suedes are misunderstood as ‘not easy to maintain’ which couldn’t be further from the truth. A water-proof spray will ensure they are great even on a rainy day, and all you need is a suede brush to give it a nice sheen and remove surface level dust. Occasionally it can be cleaned with light soap water, so in many ways it's actually easier to maintain, than full grain box calf, which requires creams and waxes to keep the leather healthy.

3.jpg__PID:b489deff-9ded-44cb-a04b-b1a8deda1033

Reverse suede

Where the top grain is only slightly sanded down similar to nubuck, so it retains the strength of the hide but the reverse side(the flesh side) is treated to give it a nice short nap. This is rarely made by many tanneries, owing to difficulty in treating two sides of the same skin and achieving a matching colour on both. We use only the best from the tannery of Charles F. Stead in England, who pioneered this leather type and now increasingly used for unlined construction, where both sides can be appreciated.

Shell.jpg__PID:012d0670-9298-4294-8c54-414ce9fa7769

Shell Cordovan

Shell cordovan is a type of leather that is prized for its smooth, lustrous finish and rich colors. It is made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. Shell cordovan is much more labor-intensive to produce than cowhide, and it ages very well, developing a particularly beautiful patina over time. The skill involved in making shell cordovan shoes is evident in every step of the process. From the selection of the leather to the final polishing, each step is performed with care and attention to detail.

Reindeer.jpg__PID:39012d06-7092-4842-948c-54414ce9fa77

Russian Reindeer Calf

Reindeer calf leather was a prized commodity in Imperial Russia’s trade with the West. Its popularity rose until the Russian Revolution and in the chaos, disorder, and destruction that followed the secret art of the leather’s tanning was lost.That was until in 1973 when a chance discovery of a 200 year old shipwreck, Which held many rolls of this leather. F&FJ Baker reverse engineered the process. They are the only tannery that makes this leather.

Milled.jpg__PID:9ded64cb-a04b-41a8-9eda-103312c9bf27

Naturally milled

The leather is much softer and ‘dyed through and through’ where the fat liquors penetrate the pores, fully making it inherently soft. But by using fuller substance, 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness it helps in holding shape and giving a nice cushion-like effect to the wearer. The full skin will have a variable grain pattern where some parts might have a bold pattern and some a finer milling pattern. We work on a spectrum where no milling and very large milling patterns are avoided in the cutting of the leather. Small, medium and large milling patterns are cut pair by pair so there isn’t any variation between the left and right. The leather is tumbled in a dry drum which helps give it a soft pleasing texture. 

Oil Pull up.jpg__PID:64cba04b-b1a8-4eda-9033-12c9bf272fa4

Oil Pull Up

Oil pull-up leather undergoes a unique tanning process where oils and waxes are infused into the leather, creating a soft and supple texture. Over time, the leather develops a distinctive patina, showcasing its durability and character. Additionally, the leather's responsiveness to use means that any temporary marks or scratches incurred during daily activities can be easily rubbed out, maintaining the appearance of the shoes.

Nubuck.jpg__PID:ed64cba0-4bb1-48de-9a10-3312c9bf272f

Nubuck

This leather is closer to a full grain, where the tight top part of the skin is kept more or less intact and sanded down minimally, just enough to give it the soft velvet touch and feel.Used mostly for more casual styles, they get a lot of undue publicity for difficulty in maintenance. With a water proof spray on top, shoes from this leather type can actually be very easy to maintain as they don’t need any cream or wax like full grain leathers do. Our nubucks, like our naturally milled leathers, are of fuller substance of 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness which help in shape retention and give a good, soft touch to the feet. 

Textured.jpg__PID:a04bb1a8-deda-4033-92c9-bf272fa403d6

Textured

A heated printing plate is pressed on top of the leather giving it a distinct look and feel. A tad bit on the stiffer, this leather type is best suited for a more casual look, especially the pebble grain and the hatch grain.

Drum dried crust.jpg__PID:89deff9d-ed64-4ba0-8bb1-a8deda103312

Drum dyed crust

Used in the lining of the shoe, where sweat absorption is important. Most linings are only upto 1 mm thick, rarely higher. However, we use 1.4 - 1.6 mm thick lining leathers, since we don’t use interlining materials and minimal adhesives between the upper and the lining. The thick lining further helps to hold the shape of the last, especially over time. The leather is dyed in the drum in the tanning process, as the name suggests, so no finishing dye solutions are sprayed on it, which may reduce its absorptive capacity. Lining leather can come in direct contact with your skin, so it's important that it is well ‘fixed’ making sure colours don’t bleed. All our lining leathers are made in local micro tanneries that are LWG certified.

Outsoles

18.jpg__PID:a40fc335-f58d-4c7a-9dd9-783955894d79

FJ Baker Barrel Waist

J&FJ Baker has a time-long tradition of oak bark pit tanning locally sourced English wet-salted cattle hides. They started this process of making oak bark outsoles in 1862. they are the last remaining tannery in England to still use this process. Their unique passionate, sustainable, slow marinating process over some fourteen months yields a strong, hardwearing, even-coloured, lightweight and exclusive leather used by bespoke shoemakers around the world.

17.jpg__PID:60a40fc3-35f5-4d8c-ba1d-d9783955894d

Italian Leather Sole

Closed channeled flexible leather outsole, made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method. 

14.jpg__PID:ebf33f60-a40f-4335-b58d-8c7a1dd97839

City Nitrile Rubber soles

The city and button soles made of nitrile rubber have excellent grip and abrasion resistance, superior oil resistance and good tear strength. The lugged rubber soled used only on the boots, uses a slightly different compound of rubber to give it some more flexibility. All our rubber soles are built to last for a long time.

19.jpg__PID:0fc335f5-8d8c-4a1d-9978-3955894d7985

Button Rubber soles

The city and button soles made of nitrile rubber have excellent grip and abrasion resistance, superior oil resistance and good tear strength. The lugged rubber soled used only on the boots, uses a slightly different compound of rubber to give it some more flexibility. All our rubber soles are built to last for a long time.

20.jpg__PID:c335f58d-8c7a-4dd9-b839-55894d798544

Lugged Rubber Sole

Lugged rubber soles, made with military-grade nitrile rubber, are commonly used in shoes for enhanced traction and durability. The rugged pattern of the sole provides a secure grip on various surfaces, making it suitable for outdoor and casual footwear. It is often utilized in boots and hiking shoes, offering stability and resistance to wear and tear in diverse environments.

12.jpg__PID:a98febf3-3f60-440f-8335-f58d8c7a1dd9

Slow pit tanned leather bends

Pit tanning takes 8 - 12 months to make, sometimes even more, depending on the thickness of the leather. The hides go through a natural dyeing and tanning process using vegetable extracts and tannins, from the bark of an oak tree, chestnut, mimosa , quebracho and other ingredients. Since heat is not used in the process, the natural steeping process over many different pits takes time and decades of experience to perfect. The end result is a tough, yet flexible sole, resistant to abrasion and naturally water resistant. We use the best from JR Rendenbach in Germany, J & F.J. Baker in England and a Tuscan tannery in Italy.

16.jpg__PID:3f60a40f-c335-458d-8c7a-1dd978395589

Dura Sole

Vegetable tanned leather with injected rubber, offering unparalled comfort

15.jpg__PID:f33f60a4-0fc3-45f5-8d8c-7a1dd9783955

EVA

Soles made of Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate are lighter and flexible compared to rubber soles. Abrasion resistance and longevity is lesser, but they are well suited for a casual look. All our EVA soles are cemented to a leather midsole, so it will be easy to resole with another pair of EVA soles without affecting the integrity and other materials of the shoe.

18.jpg__PID:a40fc335-f58d-4c7a-9dd9-783955894d79

FJ Baker Barrel Waist

J&FJ Baker has a time-long tradition of oak bark pit tanning locally sourced English wet-salted cattle hides. They started this process of making oak bark outsoles in 1862. they are the last remaining tannery in England to still use this process. Their unique passionate, sustainable, slow marinating process over some fourteen months yields a strong, hardwearing, even-coloured, lightweight and exclusive leather used by bespoke shoemakers around the world.

17.jpg__PID:60a40fc3-35f5-4d8c-ba1d-d9783955894d

Italian Leather Sole

Closed channeled flexible leather outsole, made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method. 

14.jpg__PID:ebf33f60-a40f-4335-b58d-8c7a1dd97839

City Nitrile Rubber soles

The city and button soles made of nitrile rubber have excellent grip and abrasion resistance, superior oil resistance and good tear strength. The lugged rubber soled used only on the boots, uses a slightly different compound of rubber to give it some more flexibility. All our rubber soles are built to last for a long time.

19.jpg__PID:0fc335f5-8d8c-4a1d-9978-3955894d7985

Button Rubber soles

The city and button soles made of nitrile rubber have excellent grip and abrasion resistance, superior oil resistance and good tear strength. The lugged rubber soled used only on the boots, uses a slightly different compound of rubber to give it some more flexibility. All our rubber soles are built to last for a long time.

20.jpg__PID:c335f58d-8c7a-4dd9-b839-55894d798544

Lugged Rubber Sole

Lugged rubber soles, made with military-grade nitrile rubber, are commonly used in shoes for enhanced traction and durability. The rugged pattern of the sole provides a secure grip on various surfaces, making it suitable for outdoor and casual footwear. It is often utilized in boots and hiking shoes, offering stability and resistance to wear and tear in diverse environments.

12.jpg__PID:a98febf3-3f60-440f-8335-f58d8c7a1dd9

Slow pit tanned leather bends

Pit tanning takes 8 - 12 months to make, sometimes even more, depending on the thickness of the leather. The hides go through a natural dyeing and tanning process using vegetable extracts and tannins, from the bark of an oak tree, chestnut, mimosa , quebracho and other ingredients. Since heat is not used in the process, the natural steeping process over many different pits takes time and decades of experience to perfect. The end result is a tough, yet flexible sole, resistant to abrasion and naturally water resistant. We use the best from JR Rendenbach in Germany, J & F.J. Baker in England and a Tuscan tannery in Italy.

16.jpg__PID:3f60a40f-c335-458d-8c7a-1dd978395589

Dura Sole

Vegetable tanned leather with injected rubber, offering unparalled comfort

15.jpg__PID:f33f60a4-0fc3-45f5-8d8c-7a1dd9783955

EVA

Soles made of Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate are lighter and flexible compared to rubber soles. Abrasion resistance and longevity is lesser, but they are well suited for a casual look. All our EVA soles are cemented to a leather midsole, so it will be easy to resole with another pair of EVA soles without affecting the integrity and other materials of the shoe.

Other Materials

21.jpg__PID:084155d2-6726-47f5-a205-14796b5043cb

Insole

We use slow pit tanned flexible leather of 4 - 5 mm thickness that provides excellent durability and stability to the feet. Unlike artificially arched and soft cushioned insoles, over time the thick leather insole takes the shape of the feet, creating a personalized fit. This natural process takes a few wears, over time making the shoe extremely comfortable allowing you to wear it for extended periods of wear.

22.jpg__PID:4155d267-26f7-45e2-8514-796b5043cb79

Loose cork

Shredded cork bits mixed with rubber solution to make a paste, is used between the insole and outsole to fill the cavity. Unlike compacted cork sheets that are brittle and cannot fully and effectively fill the gaps in between the insole and outsole, the loose cork and rubber solution mix from Portugal also help in making the shoe more comfortable, and take the indent of the foot over many wears.

23.jpg__PID:55d26726-f7f5-4205-9479-6b5043cb7909

Stacked Heel

The heel block is made of the same leather bends as the outsole, stacked layer by layer and finished with a combination rubber top lift.

24.jpg__PID:d26726f7-f5e2-4514-b96b-5043cb7909f4

Welt

Flexible leather to match the side profile of the sole, we use a range of flat, split or storm welts depending on the shoe style and design process.

25.jpg__PID:6726f7f5-e205-4479-ab50-43cb7909f479

Stiffeners

They give the shoe definition of shape especially in the toe box and the counter(heel) area. We use leather board heel counters that will fit comfortably and mould around your heel.

26.jpg__PID:26f7f5e2-0514-496b-9043-cb7909f4794c

Leather Shank with metal

A leather shank with reinforced metal is used as opposed to a fully metal or plastic shank.

21.jpg__PID:084155d2-6726-47f5-a205-14796b5043cb

Insole

We use slow pit tanned flexible leather of 4 - 5 mm thickness that provides excellent durability and stability to the feet. Unlike artificially arched and soft cushioned insoles, over time the thick leather insole takes the shape of the feet, creating a personalized fit. This natural process takes a few wears, over time making the shoe extremely comfortable allowing you to wear it for extended periods of wear.

22.jpg__PID:4155d267-26f7-45e2-8514-796b5043cb79

Loose cork

Shredded cork bits mixed with rubber solution to make a paste, is used between the insole and outsole to fill the cavity. Unlike compacted cork sheets that are brittle and cannot fully and effectively fill the gaps in between the insole and outsole, the loose cork and rubber solution mix from Portugal also help in making the shoe more comfortable, and take the indent of the foot over many wears.

23.jpg__PID:55d26726-f7f5-4205-9479-6b5043cb7909

Stacked Heel

The heel block is made of the same leather bends as the outsole, stacked layer by layer and finished with a combination rubber top lift.

24.jpg__PID:d26726f7-f5e2-4514-b96b-5043cb7909f4

Welt

Flexible leather to match the side profile of the sole, we use a range of flat, split or storm welts depending on the shoe style and design process.

25.jpg__PID:6726f7f5-e205-4479-ab50-43cb7909f479

Stiffeners

They give the shoe definition of shape especially in the toe box and the counter(heel) area. We use leather board heel counters that will fit comfortably and mould around your heel.

26.jpg__PID:26f7f5e2-0514-496b-9043-cb7909f4794c

Leather Shank with metal

A leather shank with reinforced metal is used as opposed to a fully metal or plastic shank.

Box calf full grain

Usually 1.2 - 1.4 mm thickness, it is the best kind of leather for formal mens shoes where the original grain is kept intact. The tight, compact grain structure gives a nice shine when polished and gives a fine look to the shoe. It will be stiffer than most leathers to start with, but will soften up nicely over time.

It is this inner rigidity that is inherent to this leather type that makes it ideal for formal shoes. It also lends well to the shape of the last and makes the shoe look sharp even after many wears and kept in shoe trees. Anilinity gives the leather depth and richness especially as it ages and has layers of creams and waxes giving it a rich natural patina over time. Our box calf leathers come from the tanneries of Annonay, du Puy and Weinheimer.

Naturally milled

The leather is much softer and ‘dyed through and through’ where the fat liquors penetrate the pores, fully making it inherently soft. But by using fuller substance, 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness it helps in holding shape and giving a nice cushion-like effect to the wearer.

The full skin will have a variable grain pattern where some parts might have a bold pattern and some a finer milling pattern. We work on a spectrum where no milling and very large milling patterns are avoided in the cutting of the leather. Small, medium and large milling patterns are cut pair by pair so there isn’t any variation between the left and right. The leather is tumbled in a dry drum which helps give it a soft pleasing texture. These leathers are locally made in an LWG certified leather using European raw hides.

Textured

A heated printing plate is pressed on top of the leather giving it a distinct look and feel. A tad bit on the stiffer, this leather type is best suited for a more casual look, especially the pebble grain and the hatch grain. The pin needle grain and Russian reindeer calf replica are increasingly being used in more formal styles, making printed leathers more acceptable in such settings. The Russian reindeer calf is only made at the English tannery of J & F.J. Baker, while others are locally printed from full grain leathers from our stocks. The pin needle was specially developed in collaboration with a Sri Lankan tannery.

Nubuck

This leather is closer to a full grain, where the tight top part of the skin is kept more or less intact and sanded down minimally, just enough to give it the soft velvet touch and feel.Used mostly for more casual styles, they get a lot of undue publicity for difficulty in maintenance. With a water proof spray on top, shoes from this leather type can actually be very easy to maintain as they don’t need any cream or wax like full grain leathers do. Our nubucks, like our naturally milled leathers, are of fuller substance of 1.8 - 2.0 mm thickness which help in shape retention and give a good, soft touch to the feet. These leathers are locally made in an LWG certified leather using European raw hides.

Suede calf skin

Where the hide is split in two parts, the bottom fleshy part is used to make suede, and the top part is used to make another product. Good suede will have a nice short nap, which means it will feel soft and velvety giving it a rich allure. Suedes are misunderstood as ‘not easy to maintain’ which couldn’t be further from the truth. A water-proof spray will ensure they are great even on a rainy day, and all you need is a suede brush to give it a nice sheen and remove surface level dust. Occasionally it can be cleaned with light soap water, so in many ways it's actually easier to maintain, than full grain box calf, which requires creams and waxes to keep the leather healthy.

Reverse suede

Where the top grain is only slightly sanded down similar to nubuck, so it retains the strength of the hide but the reverse side(the flesh side) is treated to give it a nice short nap. This is rarely made by many tanneries, owing to difficulty in treating two sides of the same skin and achieving a matching colour on both. We use only the best from the tannery of Charles F. Stead in England, who pioneered this leather type and now increasingly used for unlined construction, where both sides can be appreciated.

Drum dyed crust

Used in the lining of the shoe, where sweat absorption is important. Most linings are only upto 1 mm thick, rarely higher. However, we use 1.4 - 1.6 mm thick lining leathers, since we don’t use interlining materials and minimal adhesives between the upper and the lining. The thick lining further helps to hold the shape of the last, especially over time. The leather is dyed in the drum in the tanning process, as the name suggests, so no finishing dye solutions are sprayed on it, which may reduce its absorptive capacity. Lining leather can come in direct contact with your skin, so it's important that it is well ‘fixed’ making sure colours don’t bleed. All our lining leathers are made in local micro tanneries that are LWG certified.

Back to top