Upper leather : Full grain box calf
Lining leather : Drum dyed crust
Insole : Flexible 5 mm channeled vegetable tanned leather
Outsole : J&FJ Baker Oak bark tanned leather with a barrel waist
Insole and Outsole leathers are made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method
Last : Deus
Construction : 360° channeled welted Goodyear
Our shoes are stitched to a leather channel on the insole unlike most factory made shoes where it is stitched to a gemmed cotton rib.
The thicker insole adds more stability and support to the feet resulting in a more comfortable experience even over an extended period of wear.
Compared to a cotton rib, a welt stitched to a leather channel in the insole sits flatter on the shoe giving it a sharper feather edge.
The combination of a thick insole and the welt sitting almost in-line with the insole, reduces the break-in period of the shoe significantly.
With the invention of the goodyear welted machine in 1869, it was now made possible to make robustly constructed shoes in a factory setting. The construction separates the upper from the bottom part of the shoe with a thin strip of leather called the welt that run through the perimeter of the shoe allowing for the sole to be changed without affecting the upper.
A layer of cork paste between the insole and the outsole gives a cushion effect and takes the shape of the feet giving a snug and comfortable fit especially over extended periods of wear.
Since the basis of the construction is longevity and comfort, the materials used are mostly natural and premium quality.
Every Goodyear Welted Shoe goes through over 170 Processes, many of which require extreme precision and skill.
In 360° Channeling welted Goodyear, we use the same full substance (5mm to 6mm) leather bends as bespoke shoe making and create a channel by slitting open the edge of the insole.
The thicker insole in more comfortable and the break-in period of the shoe is shorter.
The Main line has a leathers from these tanneriers
Our full grain Box Calf leather is sourced from the tanneries of Annonay, suedes from Charles F. Stead in England and Mastrotto in Italy, lining leathers are made locally in LWG certified micro tanneries
The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.
The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.
The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.