Lasts are the building blocks to a shoe and one of the integral processes of shoemaking. Lasts are used to render shape and form in the final stages of manufacturing. The shoe is moulded around the last to create the desired shape and fit. Once fitted on the last, the shoe can stay for up to a month in order to achieve the perfect balance of shape and structure.
Our oldest and most popular last, the Zip has an almond toe, with a rounded girth used widely for all lace-up and fully-covered styles. Whilst it is graded as a EE last, it feels roomier than its equals and is accommodative of marginally wider feet as well. The understated Zip has a timeless shape rendering it the ability to carry a wide variety of styles from the classic oxford to the whole cut loafer making it suitable for daily work wear or a formal black-tie event.
The Rui has a rounded toe and is a last suitable for wide feet. It has a EE grading but clearly feels closer to a EEE last. While round and conservative at the toe, the last has a beautiful upward streak from the girth up making it quite classy for daily wear. This is a last that one can never get bored of or find uncomfortable.
Our most recent and daring last, the Deus is a classic square toe with deep curves, and a wide body (EE width) making it suitable for wider feet. The Deus is best suited with sharp dressing be it a semi-formal evening or a tuxedo look. The Wholecut Oxford showcases the curves and shapes of this Last in all it's glory
The Mod has a rounded toe and the most accommodating of our lasts for wide feet. It has a EEE grading. The Mod is a classic in it's British heritage. Round and stout this is the perfect last for wide feet and also larger sizes. The girth point and width of this shoe make it extremely comfortable while holding on to it's old world classic charm.
It was first introduced in Japan and is closer to the Rui last but very different. The Rui last has a much deeper instep whereas the Trophy has a narrower instep. Better suited for people who have slightly wider feet but still isn't a wide last like the MOD. It’s a Very classic looking last and in terms of proportions, it tends to lend really well for the saddle oxford and certain Derby's as well.
The Zed last is a derivation of the Deus last and we came about making it because many of our clients appreciated the aggressive shape of the instep on the Deus but not everyone is a fan of the square toe. We wanted a round toe more or less equivalent to the Deus which holds the proportion, fitting, and sizing. Now that the Deus has become one of our standard lasts. The Zed provides the same fitting with a round toe for customers happy with their fit on the Deus. It has an aggressive instep, a nice back that holds the cup of the heel very well, and a narrow waist which also gives natural arch support.
The Yama is our Square toed boot last. This is an aggressive last with a fitting that runs 1 size down. It has a roomy toe box and a wide instep making it perfect for a Chelsea boot. The Yama's proportions also help make the fit extremely comfortable. It is a balanced last that accommodates most feet types.
The Saga is our more rounded and wider boot last. Used on the field and the wingtip boots. This last has ample space in the toe box and the rounded off toe gives it a nice distinct look. There is ample room in the instep and is perfect for both narrow and wide feet type. A versatile boot last that is a staple of our boot collection.
The Kin is one of our older boot lasts. This last is highly adaptable to various styles. The Kin last is more almond toed and is not as rounded as the Saga. It is more suited for Chukka boots and unlined constructions. This last is deceptively comfortable, with a large instep and ample toe room.
Trobo last is a derivation of the trophy last in a boot version. What changes is the shaft of the boot last is a bit narrower because a normal last would extend out to be quite wide in the shaft whereas this has been narrowed down but otherwise it has the same proportions of the trophy last. The trophy last has a very rounded toe, quite British inspired, fairly stylish in the more casual world of boots. Instep is medium instep, not too wide, not too shallow.
Nara is our purpose made work boot last whereas other boot lasts were adopted from a dress shoe world. It's fairly chunky and rounded at the toe in the front which allows your toe to move. In terms of fitting it would fit true to last but allows generous space so you can always add a foot bed If you want it tighter or want more cushion depending on your work situation. It's got good depth on the instep and overall space to it.
The Russel last is a EE fit, designed ideally for non-lace up shoes such as loafers and moccasins. This last is inspired by the loafers made in England that have larger girth areas but taper towards the toe creating a narrower looking shoe. The sole profile for this last is usually very distinctive providing an elegant look. The Russel is one of our most perfected lasts having gone through various iterations. The Unlined loafer is built on this last.
The Armin last is a wide body last used for making loafers and moccasins. Made for a comfort fit, this shoe is a EE width, with a relaxed girth, allowing room for comfortable long day wears. This is a house favorite, owing to its classic comfort fit, and timeless style. Bridlen Moccasins are made with this last.
The Rufer has been developed on the Rui last adapting it to be more suitable for loafers and slip-ons. It has a rounded toe and the most accomodative of our lasts for wide feet. It has a EE grading but clearly feels closer to a EEE last. While round and conservative at the toe, the last has a beautiful upward streak from the girth up making it quite classy for daily wear. This is a last that one can never get bored of or find uncomfortable.
The deer last is a derivation of the Deus last which has a very aggressive instep but modified to make it more suitable as a loafer last. The step in point is made a little bit tighter so it has the proportions of a loafer last with a square toe. It's our first square toe loafer last, fairly wide but still categorised as EE. It fits half size down for most feet types.