Specifications
Upper leather // Italian Suede
Lining leather // Drum dyed crust leather
Insole // Vegetable tanned Italian leather
Outsole // Soft Italian leather
Insole and Outsole leathers are made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method
Last // Russel
Construction // Reverse goodyear
Also known as a turn-out shoe, a construction rarely found in a factory made setting owing to the difficulty in making and design.
The shoe is lasted with the upper inside-out to an leather bend(insole/outsole) that is channeled on one side.After lasting the upper it is Goodyear stitched to the insole and turned out.
The shoe is relasted to attach a heel and finish the other side of the leather bend that now becomes an outsole aswell! The materials required for such a construction are very specific and precise.
The upper leathers have to stand the turn out process which can be a bit of a struggle but not stretch.
The leather sole has to be extremely flexible despite being thick as it is both a sole that has to last over time and abrasion and an insole that needs a channel for the Goodyear stitching.
1
The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.
2
The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.
3
The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.
