Rui Last
The Rui features a rounded toe and is a last that is well suited for regular feet. While conservative at the toe, it has a beautiful upward streak from the girth, which gives it a refined and classy look for daily wear. The last offers an accommodating toe box in an EE width and fits true to size.
360° Channeling insole Goodyear Welted
Leather Channeling
Our shoes are stitched to a leather channel on the insole unlike most factory made shoes where it is stitched to a gemmed cotton rib.
Whole Day Comfort
The thicker insole adds more stability and support to the feet resulting in a more comfortable experience even over an extended period of wear.
Sharp Feather Edge Shape
Compared to a cotton rib, a welt stitched to a leather channel in the insole sits flatter on the shoe giving it a sharper feather edge.
Quicker break-in period
The combination of a thick insole and the welt sitting almost in-line with the insole, reduces the break-in period of the shoe significantly.
What is Goodyear Welted?
With the invention of the Goodyear Welted machine in 1869, it was now made possible to make robustly constructed shoes in a factory setting. The construction separates the upper from the bottom part of the shoe with a thin strip of leather called the welt that run through the perimeter of the shoe allowing for the sole to be changed without affecting the upper.
A layer of cork paste between the insole and the outsole gives a cushion effect and takes the shape of the feet giving a snug and comfortable fit especially over extended periods of wear.
Since the basis of the construction is longevity and comfort, the materials used are mostly natural and premium quality.
Every Goodyear Welted Shoe goes through over 170 processes, many of which require extreme precision and skill.
360° Channeling
Goodyear Welted
In 360° Channeling welted Goodyear, we use the same full substance (5mm to 6mm) leather bends as bespoke shoemaking and create a channel by slitting open the edge of the insole.
The thicker insole is more comfortable and the break-in period of the shoe is shorter.
Reputed Tanneries
The Main line has leathers from these tanneries.
Our full grain Box Calf leather is sourced from the tanneries of Annonay, suedes from Charles F. Stead in England and Mastrotto in Italy. Lining leathers are made locally in LWG certified micro tanneries.
Features Of Bridlen Goodyear Welted Shoes
1
3D Attachment
The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.
2
Minimal Adhesives
The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.
3
Materials
The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.
FAQs
Style Guide
