Upper leather : Museum calf
Lining leather : Drum dyed crust
Outsole : J&FJ Baker Oak bark tanned leather with a barrel waist
Insole : Flexible 5 mm channeled vegetable tanned leather, made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method
Last : Deus
Construction : 360° channeled welted Goodyear
Optional : Brass toe plates from Triumph
The Founder's Line uses shoemaking techniques which are usually followed by bespoke shoemakers adapted to a factory setting. Right from the 360-degree welt stitch to Goodyear welting directly to the leather insole.
Oak Bark Tanned Leather outsoles from FJ Baker, Limited edition Upper Leathers from the Tanneries of Zonta, Weinheimer, Du Puy, and Annonay, and with the option of adding metal toe taps.
Upper Leathers from the tanneries of Zonta, Annonay, Du Puy, CF Stead and Weinheimer. Full Grain Box Calf
Oak Bark Tanned Soles
Metal Toe Taps Optional
Leather stacked heel
8 Sole Stitches per Inch
Uppers at 18 - 20 Stitches per Inch
Wooden Shoe Horn
Our shoes are stitched to a leather channel on the insole unlike most factory made shoes where it is stitched to a gemmed cotton rib.
The thicker insole adds more stability and support to the feet resulting in a more comfortable experience even over an extended period of wear.
Compared to a cotton rib, a welt stitched to a leather channel in the insole sits flatter on the shoe giving it a sharper feather edge.
The combination of a thick insole and the welt sitting almost in-line with the insole, reduces the break-in period of the shoe significantly.
The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.
The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.
The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.
Traditional oak-bark ground-tanning is a process involving biodegradable tanning agents such as bark and fruit.
Oak bark tanned outsoles are waterproof and extremely abrasion resistant, flexible while having structure, comfortable to wear and break in and can distinguished by its attractive grain and warm, woody colour.
In 360° Channeling welted Goodyear, we use the same full substance (5mm to 6mm) leather bends as bespoke shoe making and create a channel by slitting open the edge of the insole.
The thicker insole in more comfortable and the break-in period of the shoe is shorter.
The Founders line utilizes materials from these tanneriers. Our full grain Box Calf leather is sourced from the tanneries of Annonay, Du Puy and Weinheimer. suedes from Charles F. Stead in England, lining leathers are made locally in LWG certified micro tanneries